When we put our pads in, you have the pad with the wear indicator and then the pad without. The one with the wear indicator goes on the inside, or the side facing the piston. We're just going to take it, put our little ear in there.
Put our ear in the other side. Here you go. Do the same for this one. Just start it in there. It flows around. It's not stuck in there in any way. You want to make sure that your pads are not jammed inside here.
They need to be able to squeeze against the rotor when you're braking. When you release the brake pedal, they're going to move away from the rotor a little bit, which will allow the rotor to cool down. All right, so now we have the actual caliper, and here's the piston. Here's your little ears that push up against the outer pad. It's a good idea to use a teeny bit of lubricant around the piston itself and on the ears.
The reason for that is vibration dampening and moisture control of course. Just put that on there. It looks decent. I'm not too worried about it. We're just going to bring this right over and put it onto the pads just like this. Now that we have it on there, we'll grab our bolts that hold the caliper to the slider. Just start one in there. Cool, so now we're just going to snug these up and then we'll torque them down to manufacturer specifications. Before we go though, I just want to talk a little bit more about when we were putting lubricant on the caliper itself.
Some people like to put it on the pad directly and just smear it all over the place, in which case you would have lube all right here, which is going to do what?
It's going to collect brake dust, road debris, gunk, all sorts of crud. Then it could work its way in between here, and it's going to get in between the caliper and the pad and cause issues. Why do any of that? Just put it right on where it's supposed to go, right on the contact points. And you're good to go. So let's go ahead and snug these up. If when you're tightening it, you see this spin, no problem. Hold it with your pliers. Do the same to this one.
There we hare. Let's torque those down. We're going to torque these down to manufacturer specifications. There you are. If you want to go around and do them again go ahead. So we have our new banjo bolt and our two new crush gaskets. We're going to put one of these gaskets directly onto the banjo bolt, just like that. Take your brake flex hose, put it through, just like that.
Take your other gasket, bring it over to the vehicle, right up to the caliper, started in by hand of course. Once you know you have a few good threads, you can go ahead and snug it right up. All right, so we're going to tighten this down now to manufacturer specifications. We know that this is tight. We can move along. Okay, so now that we have the caliper mounted, we're going to take off this. Now what we need to do is pump up the brake so the pedal's firm.
We're going to open up this bleeder screw right here. We're going to let it come out. We're going to let the fluid come out until it's a nice trickle of solid fluid. We'll close it up and then you would want to continue with a brake bleed. So I'm just going to pump up the brake pedal. Right now the vehicle's up in the air for me, so I'm using a pry bar just to push.
But if it was lower, and you can get in, you can use your foot of course. But essentially, just pump up the brake so that that front caliper piston will be extended as far as it can go up against the pad, which is squeezing the rotor. That's getting better. This is forcing all the air up towards that bleeder screw. Hopefully when we open the bleeder screw it will come out and then it will be nice, solid fluid. So now we're going to use a wrench. We're going to open up our bleeder screw.
Fluid may come out, so you need to wear eye protection and hand protection. And of course, have a nice bucket to collect any fluid that will come out. Open this up. We're going to wait a little while for fluid to make its way down through here, fill up this portion of the caliper, force the air up and out. Then it'll have a nice strong trickle of fluid coming out. We'll close it up and then it would be time to go ahead and bleed it. So there we are. This is a nice solid stream of fluid.
I'm just going to close this back up now. So now that we know we have that nice trickle of fluid, we would go over and do the other side of the vehicle if you're doing both calipers at the same time. Once you're done with that, you would continue on to a manual brake bleed. If you don't know how to do that, you can check out our video.
So now that it's all bled out, we're just going to use a little bit of parts cleaner, nice handy rag. We just want to make sure we get off as much of that brake fluid as possible while we still have a collection bucket there. Obviously, any chemical going into the ground is no good. That looks pretty great. We're going to use our little boot or cover.
It's going to go right over the bleeder screw. The reason for that is to keep the moisture and debris out of there. All set. Now what we need to do is go ahead and put the wheel on here and torque it down. Like this, lift it up on my leg. Brake fluid is hygroscopic absorbs moisture from the air so you don't want to leave the cap off for any longer than absolutely necessary. If your Malibu has been exhibiting shuddering, shaking or vibrations in the front end while braking, the OEM rotors might be worn out or warped and should be replaced.
Two compatible replacement aftermarket front brake rotors with their part numbers are as follows: Centric To replace the rotors, first remove the two 21mm bolts on the back side of the bracket or "torque member" that secure it to the wheel hub. Set the bracket aside in a safe place. Consult with your dealership to purchase new bracket bolts. Then remove the set screw on the outer face of the rotor by turning it in the counterclockwise direction with a Torx T30 star bit screwdriver.
Slide the new rotor over the lug studs and replace the Torx T30 set screw by turning it in the clockwise direction. The torque specification for the front rotor set screw is 62 lb-in or 7 N. Re-attach the caliper bracket with the two 21mm bolts and tighten them in the clockwise direction until they are snug. The service manual specification for tightening the torque-to-yield 21mm caliper bracket bolts is lb-ft plus 45 degrees for the first pass and another 15 degrees for the second pass.
An optional step is to apply some Loctite Blue medium strength - removable with hand tools or Loctite Red high strength - heat required for removal threadlocking adhesive to the bracket bolts. Double check that the bracket bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps.
Note - The torque specifications were obtained from the service manuals for the To Chevrolet Malibu, to Buick LaCrosse and the to Buick Regal.
All of these vehicles along with the Chevrolet Equinox and GMC Terrain have the same front brake caliper and bracket part numbers. Please verify the torque specifications for your vehicle.
Orientate the wear indicator bar at the top of the new inner brake pad. Push the new inner brake pad into the bracket. Push the two pads together until they are flush against the rotor. If your new brake pads are equipped with the small grooves at the top and bottom, re-attach the two "V" or "U" shaped metal pad spreader clips.
These spring clips help reduce the friction on the rotor when you are not pushing down the brake pedal. Carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads and into the bracket. If you can't lower the caliper over the new pads, you may need to compress the piston back a bit further. Spin in the two caliper bolts a few turns by hand in the counterclockwise direction to help prevent them from becoming cross threaded.
The service manual specification for tightening the front caliper bolts is 20 lb-ft or 27 N. Double check that the caliper bolts are tight before moving on to the next steps. It would be a good idea to bleed the brake lines and flush out the old fluid with fresh new DOT 3 brake fluid. I highly recommend using the Allstar Performance Bleeder Bottle to bleed the brake lines. It makes this procedure an easy one-person job compared to having an assistant pump the brake pedal for you. The brake fluid bleeder valve is located on the back side of the caliper just below the top bolt.
To open and close the valve, you'll need a 10mm wrench. In general, the brake line bleeding order for most vehicles is to start at the caliper furthest from the brake fluid reservoir and work your way to the closest caliper. So the order should be as follows: right rear, right left, front right and front left.
Spin on the five lug nuts a few turns by hand in the clockwise direction to help prevent them from becoming cross threaded. Slightly tighten the lug nuts in the clockwise direction with the tire iron in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern. Continue tightening the lug nuts in the clockwise direction in a criss-cross or "star" pattern to just past hand tight. It would be best to use a torque wrench to properly tighten the lug nuts to the owner's manual specification of lb-ft.
New brake pads are perfectly flat and need a flat surface to mate against. If new brake pads are installed onto a worn brake rotor it can cause weak brake operation and squeaking. This can cause the brake pedal or steering wheel to pulse when the brakes are applied.
It's not a good idea to install new brake pads on an old brake rotor because the braking surface will be uneven and will diminish the brakes ability which can make the car pull one way or the other when braking. This is known as "slap pads on it" and is the very cheapest way to do a front bake job.
Replace the Brake Rotor: Some brake rotors are held to the bearing hub with a mounting screw or sheet metal clip on the wheel stud.
Use a screwdriver or impact screwdriver to remove the screws. There also may be sheet metal clips that can be removed with a pair of side cutters dikes. These clips can then be discarded. These mounting screws can be on there pretty tight in which case you must use an impact screwdriver which looks like this and is available from Amazon or you can rent it from the parts store which is pretty cheap. While wearing safety goggles use a hammer and strike the end of the impact screwdriver which will unlock the screw and make it more easily removed.
The impact screwdriver has two settings, tighten and loosen so make sure you have it on the correct setting. After removing any mounting screws or clips the rotor should be loose. Sometimes the rotor can be stuck due to rust and the fact the wheel is tightened against it and the bearing hub. While still wearing safety goggles use a plastic or regular hammer to shock the rotor loose for removal. This can take some force so don't be afraid to give it a good strong strike of a metal hammer.
Once the old brake rotor has been removed match it to the new rotor. Check the outer diameter and mounting offset along with the wheel stud location, they should be an identical match. Some people like to re-machine rotors using a brake lathe. We recommend new ones because the re-machined rotors will have less metal to dissipate heat with which can make them warp.
This condition will make the steering wheel shake when applying the brakes. Use a shop towel and wipe off the mounting surface of the bearing hub and make sure it's free from dirt and grease. This will allow the new rotor to sit squarely on the bearing hub.
Once the old rotor has been matched to the new unit, align the wheel studs and rotor mounting screws. Then slip the rotor onto the bearing hub. Install the rotor mounting screws and tighten. You do not need to use the impact screwdriver to make the screws super tight at this point because the rotor will be held on by the wheel and lug nuts. On older cars and light trucks the rotor will house the axle bearings and grease seal which will need to be cleaned and repacked serviced.
The caliper sides are designed to allow the caliper to float while being bolted to the mounting bracket which helps the brake pads wear evenly. When brake caliper slides become stuck due to rust and corrosion the car can pull while braking which causing one pad to wear excessively compared to the opposite pad in the caliper.
It can also cause the brakes not to release once applied and create excessive heat. Remove the Slide Bolts: Grasp the slides and pull them outward while twisting this will help break the dust boot seal loose. Continue to work the slides outward until they come free from the mounting bracket. If a slide is stuck or seized in the bracket use a vise to hold the bracket and a pair of pliers to work it loose by moving it back and forth while applying WD40 and pulling them outward.
Use a shop towel carburetor or brake cleaner and a wire brush to clean all rust and corrosion from the slides. Check the slide bolts for wear and replacement them if excessive wear is observed. Once the slides have been cleaned apply a thin layer of silicone brake lube to both slides. Some slides will have a dampener on one end be sure to not get these mixed up. Install them back into the hole they came out of. Reinstall the Slides and Caliper Mount: Install the caliper slides into the caliper mounting bracket with a twisting motion and make sure the slides move easily in the out.
If not, remove the slide for more investigation. These slides can become worn and have groves in them in which case they will need to be replaced. Slide pin grooves can cause the caliper to hang which will create uneven pad wear and braking characteristics.
Before reinstalling the caliper mounting bracket clean the threads of the bolts by using a small wire brush. Then hand thread in both mounting bolts into the bracket. Tighten the bolts evenly to manufacturer's specifications which is usually between 70 and 90 foot pounds.
A small amount of thread lock can be used to ensure the bolts do not come loose. Once the caliper has been removed and the rotor replaced you are ready to install the new brake pads. Put the wheel back in place. Put the hub cap on and start your lug nuts. You just want to kind of hand start them first, to make sure you don't cross the threads and then once they're hand started, then just kind of preliminarily tighten them up.
With the car back on the ground with a little bit of pressure on it, or weight on it, I will use 22mm and my torque wrench that I've set to foot-pounds and torque them in a star pattern. After we do any brake work, it's a good practice to pump the brake pedal several times before you go taking off. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www. Please feel free to call us toll-free, We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person. Watch this video to learn how to check the level of your power steering fluid, and add more if necessary.
Some details may differ in your vehicle. Our how-to videos have helped repair over million vehicles. Track Order. Free Shipping My Cart. Proceed To Checkout. Video Library. Share on:. Copy URL. Installation Instructions Steps Video Transcript Transcript Associated Vehicles Fits Created on: Check out this video to learn how you can replace the worn or squeaky front brakes on your Hyundai Elantra. Turn the rotor by hand or turn the steering wheel to turn the rotor Check for gouges on both sides of the rotor Check the thickness of the brake pads.
Remove the two 14mm bolts from the brake caliper Pry off the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver Pull the caliper aside Pull off the brake pads.
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